Spain 13, Annual Medieval Fiesta, September

92.18.172.35

53112020

53007094 <DIV style="TEXT-ALIGN: center"><A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/R5EPvjTqd1I/AAAAAAAAAWg/2q9NMSDxf_8/s1600-h/Medieval_Ambulance.JPG" target=_blank><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5156920357921912658 style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/R5EPvjTqd1I/AAAAAAAAAWg/2q9NMSDxf_8/s320/Medieval_Ambulance.JPG" border=0></A>The Medieval Ambulance </DIV> Every year since 2002, on the third weekend in September, Vitoria-Gasteiz becomes home to a three-day long medieval fiesta. Many market stalls spring up lining the streets on the crest of the hill in the old town. In the rest of the city there are street artists, jugglers and jesters, dancers and ancient battle games, including jousting and sword fights. <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/R5EL4TTqdzI/AAAAAAAAAWQ/xq2D4yOP_cs/s1600-h/Hardi_Medieval_Market_Stall_2.JPG" target=_blank><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5156916110199256882 style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="http://bp2.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/R5EL4TTqdzI/AAAAAAAAAWQ/xq2D4yOP_cs/s200/Hardi_Medieval_Market_Stall_2.JPG" border=0></A>The market features dozens of stalls and is the biggest of it's kind in the Basque Country, with people coming from all over Spain to sell their wares. There are many food stalls and even pigs being roasted on spits, and a plentiful supply of "sidra" (cider). My friend Hardi was on hand selling his fine jewelery, but you have to keep an eager eye on some of the customers........ <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/R5EPIzTqd0I/AAAAAAAAAWY/McLhlcFAZkg/s1600-h/Iris.JPG" target=_blank><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5156919692201981762 style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/R5EPIzTqd0I/AAAAAAAAAWY/McLhlcFAZkg/s200/Iris.JPG" border=0></A> ......like the lovely little Iris, my mate Jarrod's daughter, a budding kleptomaniac caught in the act in this picture. By the age of 1, she had already got her Mum, Maitane, in trouble from store detectives with her light fingers! <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/R5oKPUieedI/AAAAAAAAAWw/JqcBi1704PE/s1600-h/Medieval_Dancing.JPG" target=_blank><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5159447581433952722 style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/R5oKPUieedI/AAAAAAAAAWw/JqcBi1704PE/s200/Medieval_Dancing.JPG" border=0></A> The medieval atmosphere is enhanced by strolling minstrels and music coming through megaphone speakers, which is very similar to medieval music you might hear at similar fetes in England, but with a distinct arabic feel to it. When I thought about this it was hardly surprising as, during medieval times, Spain was ruled by the Moors. "Moors" is a term for the Muslims from North Africa, of Arab or Berber descent, who conquered the Iberian Peninsula within 8 years of their invasion in 711 AD. <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/R5oCHUieecI/AAAAAAAAAWo/pCux4UVaP_k/s1600-h/Arabic_Name_John.JPG" target=_blank><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5159438647901977026 style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/R5oCHUieecI/AAAAAAAAAWo/pCux4UVaP_k/s200/Arabic_Name_John.JPG" border=0></A>They ruled most of Spain for several centuries, with the exception of northwest areas, such as Asturias, and the largely Basque regions in the Pyrenees. Their attempts to extend their territory across the Pyrenees failed when they were defeated by the French. My name in Arabic, from a market stall here. All this Muslim history may well go unnoticed in visits to many Spanish cities, particularly in the north, with the many beautiful and ancient catholic churches to be found, but 8 centuries ago, in 1200 AD, 80% of Iberia's 7 million inhabitants were Muslim, hence buildings like the Alhambra in Granada and the Aljafera in Zaragoza, pictured below and in my post <A href="http://englishidiotabroad.blogspot.com/2006/07/pt-221-zaragoza-history-and-bike-news.html">Zaragoza, History and Bike News. </A> <A href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/R7rnUiKtLgI/AAAAAAAAAX4/1bJ8rLQcuwY/s1600-h/ElCid.JPG"><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5168697862316174850 style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/R7rnUiKtLgI/AAAAAAAAAX4/1bJ8rLQcuwY/s200/ElCid.JPG" border=0></A><A href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/R7m1ZyKtLfI/AAAAAAAAAXw/7ce-7_6Gp-4/s1600-h/SV100396s.0"><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5168361501952388594 style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/R7m1ZyKtLfI/AAAAAAAAAXw/7ce-7_6Gp-4/s200/SV100396s.0" border=0></A>I was in Valencia for several months and you would be hard-pressed to find a lot of Muslim influence there, but this was probably destroyed by the legendary El Cid when he laid siege to the city and carved out a small kingdom for himself at the end of the 11th century. Christian resistance grew from Visigoth enclaves in the northwest and different kingdoms slowly extended their power. In the early 13th century, combined forces under the leadership of Alfonso VIII of Castile drove the Muslims from central Iberia. A later marriage between Ferdinand II of Aragon and Isabella I of Castile(Reyes Catolicos) united all the christian kingdoms and in 1492 the last Muslim stronghold of Granada surrendered. This was the time of the Spanish Inquisition, aimed mostly at Jews and Muslims who had officially become christian but were thought to be secretly practising their faiths. They were expelled, forced to convert to christianity or murdered. Cartman, from South Park, would have fitted in right well there! :-) <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/R5oXiEieeeI/AAAAAAAAAW4/07B0mRfMktY/s1600-h/Medieval_Horseback.JPG" target=_blank><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5159462197207661026 style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp2.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/R5oXiEieeeI/AAAAAAAAAW4/07B0mRfMktY/s200/Medieval_Horseback.JPG" border=0></A>Anyway, back in Vitoria, a flavour of these many battles is provided on the Saturday and Sunday evenings of the fiesta with medieval games in <A href="http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&time=&date=&ttype=&q=Plaza+de+los+Fueros,+Independentzia+Kalea,+01005,+Vitoria-Gasteiz,+Alava,+Basque+Country,+Spain&sll=42.849491,-2.671369&sspn=0.007001,0.014591&ie=UTF8&cd=1&geocode=0,42.845276,-2.670883&ll=42.848424,-2.670815&spn=0.007001,0.014591&z=16&iwloc=addr&om=1" target=_blank>Plaza del Los Fueros</A>. Here the protagonists line up before commencing battle. <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/R5oX4EieefI/AAAAAAAAAXA/3wnB7_SmQRI/s1600-h/Medieval_Jousting.JPG" target=_blank><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5159462575164783090 style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp2.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/R5oX4EieefI/AAAAAAAAAXA/3wnB7_SmQRI/s200/Medieval_Jousting.JPG" border=0></A> The jousting warmed up using targets, but then one-to-one combat which was pretty realistic with the knights being knocked off their horses. I certainly wouldn't care to be on the receiving end of one of those lances! <A href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/R73IyiKtLhI/AAAAAAAAAYA/bT4_0BbEUD0/s1600-h/Horse_Bolted.JPG"><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5169508717781921298 style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp2.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/R73IyiKtLhI/AAAAAAAAAYA/bT4_0BbEUD0/s200/Horse_Bolted.JPG" border=0></A>This caused some unscheduled "equine frenzy" entertainment when a horse bolted following one of the jousts. <OBJECT height=252 width=306 align=right><PARAM NAME="movie" VALUE="http://www.youtube.com/v/88RdYTT4VVs"> <embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/88RdYTT4VVs" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="306" height="252"></embed> </OBJECT> There was a woman fighting in the games, and she could certainly wield a sword! The crowd became partisan and had their favourites, on our side it was the "chica" and the other a scary black knight. She did very well, despite appearing to come a cropper in this video, she got back up and defeated this lesser knight. <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/R5oYoEieegI/AAAAAAAAAXI/CpZn6wpunJ0/s1600-h/Medieval_Swordfight_1.JPG" target=_blank><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5159463399798503938 style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp2.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/R5oYoEieegI/AAAAAAAAAXI/CpZn6wpunJ0/s200/Medieval_Swordfight_1.JPG" border=0></A><A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/R5oY60ieehI/AAAAAAAAAXQ/e74gg9QT-Yk/s1600-h/Medieval_Swordfight_2.JPG" target=_blank><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5159463721921051154 style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp1.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/R5oY60ieehI/AAAAAAAAAXQ/e74gg9QT-Yk/s200/Medieval_Swordfight_2.JPG" border=0></A> The black knight was ruthlessly slaying his challengers and winning more support from the crowd. The finale saw him fight against the chica, and despite myself and our side of the crowd cheering in support for her, the knight proved to difficult and would come to win the day. <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/R5oZL0ieeiI/AAAAAAAAAXY/VJkezs36VLg/s1600-h/Medieval_Knights.JPG" target=_blank><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5159464013978827298 style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp1.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/R5oZL0ieeiI/AAAAAAAAAXY/VJkezs36VLg/s200/Medieval_Knights.JPG" border=0></A><A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/R961YSVh-SI/AAAAAAAAAYU/23Z3i82YzAY/s1600-h/Susanatxitzu.jpg" target=_blank><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5178776050366282018 style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp2.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/R961YSVh-SI/AAAAAAAAAYU/23Z3i82YzAY/s200/Susanatxitzu.jpg" border=0></A> The locals like to get involved also, here's the Harley-riding barman from Rock Bar <A href="http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=calle+cuchilleria,+13,++vitoria-gasteiz&sll=42.849491,-2.671369&sspn=0.01205,0.029182&ie=UTF8&ll=42.850548,-2.670965&spn=0.013057,0.029182&z=15&iwloc=addr&iwstate1=ssprovidelocationcard:actions" target=_blank>Rivendell</A> on Calle Cuchilleria with his henchman! You'd better behave when head-banging in his bar! Also here's the lovely Susana, the best barmaid in Vitoria, from bar <A href="http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msa=0&ie=UTF8&z=17&msid=102258601116914481745.000001134df9b0ce544e4" target=_blank>Txistu</A> where they serve the best Irish coffees in Spain. <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/SAItnLDmUlI/AAAAAAAAAZc/GGCjs8oFYhc/s1600-h/Medieval_Torture_2.jpg"><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5188759871690265170 style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp2.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/SAItnLDmUlI/AAAAAAAAAZc/GGCjs8oFYhc/s200/Medieval_Torture_2.jpg" border=0></A> <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/R5oZdkieejI/AAAAAAAAAXg/S5bsqsZ8iKo/s1600-h/Medieval_Torture.jpg" target=_blank><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5159464318921505330 style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/R5oZdkieejI/AAAAAAAAAXg/S5bsqsZ8iKo/s200/Medieval_Torture.jpg" border=0></A> They had gruesome methods of torture in those days, here's Karlos giving me the head squeeze for being an English infadel! Australian friend Tony can only watch and laugh - so much for Commonwealth solidarity then! He he! I did get my revenge later though!

2009-09-15T16:50:55+02:00

2009-09-15T16:50:00+02:00 53154094

spain-13-annual-medieval-fiesta-september

2009-09-15T16:50:55+02:00

1 Spain 13, Annual Medieval Fiesta, September

2009-09-15T17:27:57+02:00

92.18.172.35

53112020

53007094 <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RzN_1GXzXVI/AAAAAAAAAVI/FcFIkcwANYQ/s1600-h/sv100547.jpg" target=_blank><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5130584950725369170 style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RzN_1GXzXVI/AAAAAAAAAVI/FcFIkcwANYQ/s400/sv100547.jpg" border=0></A> Since 2002 Basque rock fans have had a reason to smile. The Azkena Rock Festival is arguably the biggest heavy metal festival in Spain. Headliners in 2006 were Pearl Jam, but the must-see for me were Iggy and The Stooges. I first got into Iggy Pop in the <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/R0CvS9dVzoI/AAAAAAAAAVc/wUWLtMqlTOA/s1600-h/sv100523.jpg" target=_blank><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5134296315472498306 style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="http://bp2.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/R0CvS9dVzoI/AAAAAAAAAVc/wUWLtMqlTOA/s200/sv100523.jpg" border=0></A>early 80´s after hearing "Lust For Life" at a local club. I bought a couple of his albums which were well worn a couple of years later. "Lust For Life" and the forever played "The Passenger", are true classics and ones that I would never grow tired of listening to. All this said, I had never seen Iggy live and here was my chance 25 years later, and many thanks to my mate Kaldi who gave me the ticket. When I arrived the Young Fresh Fellows were playing. They sounded pretty good and eased me into the festival spirit. The Waterboys, formed by singer Mike Scott, recorded their first album in 1983. Their third album managed to reach the top 40 in 1985, and a single from this album, "The Whole of The Moon", reached number 3 when re-released in 1991. Before the gig this was the only song I could remember, thinking "they must have had other hits". Listening to the band, though, I was surprised how many songs I actually recognised. <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/R0bwv9dVzqI/AAAAAAAAAVs/NI0IJUijj90/s1600-h/sv100537.jpg" target=_blank><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5136057131804774050 style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/R0bwv9dVzqI/AAAAAAAAAVs/NI0IJUijj90/s320/sv100537.jpg" border=0></A> At this stage of the evening it wasn't too crowded, so I could get right to the front to take some pictures. There I met a couple of Irish guys. One of them, Mark, was shouting "Steve-O, Steve-O" at the top of his voice, for the Irish fiddle player, Steve Wickham. I joined in initially, even though I´d never heard of the guy, but stopped after realising that Steve was a bit uncomfortable about it. His fiddle playing was awesome, and the whole set was excellent. Another band, Green on Red, were next on another stage but we decided to stay in our good spot at the front for the main act of the evening, Iggy & The Stooges. The Stooges were formed in 1967 and made a couple of low-selling albums before <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RzOAFmXzXWI/AAAAAAAAAVQ/LqJ-8lXK_G4/s1600-h/sv100546.jpg" target=_blank><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5130585234193210722 style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="http://bp2.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RzOAFmXzXWI/AAAAAAAAAVQ/LqJ-8lXK_G4/s200/sv100546.jpg" border=0></A>breaking up due to Iggy's growing heroin addiction. They were reformed in 1973 to record the punk landmark album "Raw Power", produced by Iggy's friend, David Bowie. The band would soon split up again, though. In 1977 Bowie and Iggy moved to East Berlin to wean themselves off hard drugs(?), and Bowie produced and co-wrote some tracks on two Iggy Pop albums, "The Idiot" and "Lust For Life", regarded as Iggy's finest solo works, and the ones I would come to buy later. The big break in Iggy's life would come years later, as a result of these albums. In 1983 Bowie recorded a cover of "China Girl" from "The Idiot" on his massive "Let's Dance" album. The single was a major world-wide hit and Iggy, as co-writer received <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RzN_kGXzXUI/AAAAAAAAAVA/xiSAk_hPYgs/s1600-h/sv100548.jpg" target=_blank><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5130584658667593026 style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RzN_kGXzXUI/AAAAAAAAAVA/xiSAk_hPYgs/s200/sv100548.jpg" border=0></A>substantial royalties. On Bowie's "Tonight" album in 1984, there were also two covers from "Lust For Life", "Tonight" and "Neighborhood Threat". This would give Iggy the means to take a long break and conquer his heroin addiction, getting married in the process. The two other surviving members of The Stooges, Ron and Scott Asheton, joined Iggy on his 2003 album "Skull Ring", and would later reform the group, becoming "Iggy and The Stooges". Positioning yourself at the front is great for the view and the atmosphere you experience, and for taking pictures. When Iggy came on stage I was thrilled to be so close, but this also has it's drawbacks. You certainly get close contact with people around you!, and when the crowd get warmed up it can be a challenge to stay on your feet. Many people were hurling various liquids towards the stage as well, much of which was beer judging by the state of my hair afterwards! <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RzN_XmXzXTI/AAAAAAAAAU4/5mF8BQxOeZc/s1600-h/SV100553.JPG" target=_blank><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5130584443919228210 style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="http://bp2.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RzN_XmXzXTI/AAAAAAAAAU4/5mF8BQxOeZc/s200/SV100553.JPG" border=0></A>The crowd had really got going, Iggy being very popular here, as everywhere, and when he invited the fans onstage for the song "No Fun", both my head and shoulders were used as stepping stones for the large number of fans trying to accept the invitation. Many were caught by the security in front of the stage and escorted away, but the intrepid ones made it, and were paid off by joining him for the song. <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RzN-oWXzXRI/AAAAAAAAAUo/2h7_UcR9g8g/s1600-h/SV100556.JPG" target=_blank><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5130583632170409234 style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="http://bp1.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RzN-oWXzXRI/AAAAAAAAAUo/2h7_UcR9g8g/s200/SV100556.JPG" border=0></A>This is the typical melee you will find at a gig like this. Not for the faint-hearted and not many people will come out unscathed. Having said this, it's a friendly, if quite physical experience. The bruises I had later were worth it! I remember being at concerts by both The Cramps and Killing Joke in Leeds in the mid-eighties, where I really couldn't keep on my feet and was continuously knocked over. Each time, though, somebody would catch me before I hit the floor and help me back up! <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RzN-OWXzXQI/AAAAAAAAAUg/cvnOEiqC_Pw/s1600-h/sv100557.jpg" target=_blank><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5130583185493810434 style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="http://bp1.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RzN-OWXzXQI/AAAAAAAAAUg/cvnOEiqC_Pw/s200/sv100557.jpg" border=0></A>The final band of the evening were The Misfits. Formed in New Jersey in 1977, they were the first ever "Punk Horror" band. Although not really successful at the time, and having split up in 1983, the band's underground fame grew and their records had been reissued and selliing well in the late 80's. In 1995 the original bassist and now singer, Dave Only(or "Weird Hairstyle" as I call him) and guitarist Doyle Wolfgang von Frankenstein reincarnated the group. Tonight's line up was Only, Dez Cadena on guitar and Robo on drums(both former Black Flag). <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RzN92GXzXPI/AAAAAAAAAUY/bH2w5J2hPTs/s1600-h/sv100559.jpg" target=_blank><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5130582768881982706 style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RzN92GXzXPI/AAAAAAAAAUY/bH2w5J2hPTs/s200/sv100559.jpg" border=0></A>The group has been cited as spawning many later "horror punk" bands, but also influencing mainstream groups, such as Marilyn Manson, Metallica, Green Day, Red Hot Chilli Peppers and Guns N' Roses. They certainly put on a spectacular show for their age, and still have it in them to perform, if lacking the talent of earlier days. <DIV style="TEXT-ALIGN: center"><A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RzN9hGXzXOI/AAAAAAAAAUQ/1EncilONGXs/s1600-h/sv100564.jpg" target=_blank><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5130582408104729826 style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RzN9hGXzXOI/AAAAAAAAAUQ/1EncilONGXs/s320/sv100564.jpg" border=0></A>The big finale marking the end of Azkena for me. </DIV> If you want to read more about this festival, especially the other days including Pearl Jam's apparently "top drawer" performance, have a look at this <A href="http://purgegeeks.blogspot.com/2006/09/azkena-rock-festival-vitoria-spain.html" target=_blank>blog post</A> by someone more "in the know" regarding heavy metal music, Lou from Pittsburgh.

2009-09-15T16:50:08+02:00

2009-09-15T16:49:00+02:00 53154093

spain-12-the-azkena-rock-festival-aug-sep

2009-09-15T16:50:08+02:00

1 Spain 12, The Azkena Rock Festival Aug-Sep

2009-09-15T17:27:11+02:00

92.18.172.35

53112020

53007094 <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RxUvf-xhEeI/AAAAAAAAAR4/f41ua0IUPgc/s1600-h/SV101302-2.JPG" target=_blank><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5122052377676943842 style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RxUvf-xhEeI/AAAAAAAAAR4/f41ua0IUPgc/s400/SV101302-2.JPG" border=0></A>The cities and towns in Spain have many fiestas, but each one has one big blow-out which overshadows the others, in honour of the city's patron saint. As in Zaragoza, the patron saint of this city is the Virgin Mary, "la Virgen Blanca". In Vitoria-Gasteiz, normally a very relaxed and tranquil city, everyone really lets their hair down for Las Fiestas de la Virgen, a six day continuous party spanning the entire city. <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RxUgKuxhEcI/AAAAAAAAARo/34nveDnrgm4/s1600-h/sv100498.jpg" target=_blank><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5122035519930307010 style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="http://bp2.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RxUgKuxhEcI/AAAAAAAAARo/34nveDnrgm4/s200/sv100498.jpg" border=0></A>During the festivities there are many street processions, dancers, musicians, live statues, free concerts and bullfights. <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/Rx-uZOxhEfI/AAAAAAAAASA/OQc7sEMIffk/s1600-h/sv100488.jpg" target=_blank><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5125006649456660978 style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="http://bp2.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/Rx-uZOxhEfI/AAAAAAAAASA/OQc7sEMIffk/s200/sv100488.jpg" border=0></A>The partying starts the night before, and in 2006 the legendary Jamaican reggae star Jimmy Cliff performed a concert in <A href="http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&time=&date=&ttype=&q=Plaza+de+los+Fueros,+Independentzia+Kalea,+01005,+Vitoria-Gasteiz,+Alava,+Basque+Country,+Spain&sll=42.849491,-2.671369&sspn=0.007001,0.014591&ie=UTF8&cd=1&geocode=0,42.845276,-2.670883&ll=42.848424,-2.670815&spn=0.007001,0.014591&z=16&iwloc=addr&om=1" target=_blank>Plaza del Los Fueros</A>. Although his opening words, "Hola España!", could have been better chosen here in the centre of the Basque Country, his later shouts to the effect of "Bush and Blair no war in Iraq" went down a storm. <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RyDW5aDtASI/AAAAAAAAASI/lP9TD1p15N0/s1600-h/sv100493.jpg" target=_blank><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5125332657683366178 style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RyDW5aDtASI/AAAAAAAAASI/lP9TD1p15N0/s200/sv100493.jpg" border=0></A>The fiesta officially kicks off on 4th August at 6 p.m. when the mayor fires el chupinazo ("the bang", using rocket fireworks). This initiates the release of Celedón, an effigy holding an umbrella, who descends on wires from a church tower high above the main square, Plaza de la Virgen Blanca, reminiscent of Mary Poppins! At the same time, thousands of people in the square light up a big cigar(puro) and pop open a bottle of Cava, spraying it into the air. <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RyDhFKDtAUI/AAAAAAAAASY/JVfab2gXzW4/s1600-h/sv100496.jpg" target=_blank><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5125343854663106882 style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RyDhFKDtAUI/AAAAAAAAASY/JVfab2gXzW4/s200/sv100496.jpg" border=0></A>Approximately 20,000 puros and 30,000 bottles of Cava are lit/opened at this point.(The wearing of old clothes is thoroughly recommended for this stage of the proceedings!) Several minutes later, after passing over the huge crowd of revelers(approximately 40,000 people), Celedón enters a balcony window at the bottom of the square, and then a man dressed identically appears at the window and leaps into the crowd, in true Benny Hill style! <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RyTZ0qDtAWI/AAAAAAAAASo/FNFrAFkp8O0/s1600-h/sv100497.jpg" target=_blank><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5126461774520713570 style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="http://bp1.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RyTZ0qDtAWI/AAAAAAAAASo/FNFrAFkp8O0/s200/sv100497.jpg" border=0></A>The descent of Celedón has been used to open the fiesta since 1957, started by a group of Vitorian "blusas" and popularly believed to be in memory of, and to pay homage to, the villager Celedonio Alzola, from nearby <A href="http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&time=&date=&ttype=&q=Zalduondo,+pais+vasco&ie=UTF8&ll=42.953407,-2.346954&spn=0.419133,0.933838&z=10&iwloc=addr&om=1" target=_blank>Zalduondo</A>. This affectionate character, born in 1796, used to travel to the fiestas every year and became a protagonist, promoting them with his affable personality. However, the song verse that is sung on his descent and throughout the fiestas "Celedón, ha hecho una casa nueva. Celedón, con ventana y balcón" was actually composed for Celedonio Iturralde, from <A href="http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&time=&date=&ttype=&q=Andagoia,+pais+vasco&ie=UTF8&ll=42.990586,-2.90863&spn=0.418879,0.933838&z=10&iwloc=addr&om=1" target=_blank>Andagoia</A>, by his friend from the Carlist Wars, Vitoria's organist, Pedro Fernández. <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RyYgqaDtAXI/AAAAAAAAASw/p1_1NdhfjgE/s1600-h/DSCN0120.JPG" target=_blank><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5126821138729337202 style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="http://bp2.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RyYgqaDtAXI/AAAAAAAAASw/p1_1NdhfjgE/s200/DSCN0120.JPG" border=0></A>I would say, after getting the local opinion here, that the best way to look at Celedón is as a legend, an emblem or symbol representing good will and affection, all that is good about Vitoria-Gasteiz and its' region, Alava. This statue of Celedón, erected in 2005, from what I've seen, must be one of the most hugged(by children and adults alike) and patted statues in the world! (photograph taken in 2007) <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RyDm_KDtAVI/AAAAAAAAASg/8vBzoxRojhc/s1600-h/sv100499.jpg" target=_blank><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5125350348653658450 style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RyDm_KDtAVI/AAAAAAAAASg/8vBzoxRojhc/s200/sv100499.jpg" border=0></A> Now the fiesta really gets going, and there's no let up. The normally generous opening hours seem to be thrown out of the window for 6 days. I took this picture at around 5 a.m., a couple of days into the fiestas. An army of 200 workers and volunteers are at hand: firemen, medical staff and cleaning services(very necessary!). <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RyYoIaDtAYI/AAAAAAAAAS4/TKJ40X5HNyg/s1600-h/sv100503.jpg" target=_blank><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5126829350706807170 style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="http://bp2.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RyYoIaDtAYI/AAAAAAAAAS4/TKJ40X5HNyg/s200/sv100503.jpg" border=0></A><A href="http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&time=&date=&ttype=&q=Calle+Cuchiller%C3%ADa,+18,+01001+Vitoria-Gasteiz,+Spain&sll=42.848896,-2.670686&sspn=0.007001,0.014591&ie=UTF8&ll=42.848912,-2.670708&spn=0.007001,0.014591&z=16&iwloc=addr&om=1" target=_blank>Calle Cuchilleria</A>, 5:10 a.m. The banner you can see is in the Basque language Euskara, "euskal presoak etxera" means "imprisoned Basques home" referring to political members of E.T.A. in different Spanish prisons up to 1,000 km away from their familes, and "estatus politikoa orain!" means "political status now!" for these prisoners. Banners and graffiti of this kind can always be seen in the old town, especially on this street, along with photos of the prisoners. <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/Ryd6iqDtAZI/AAAAAAAAATA/cYVXTB2YU48/s1600-h/sv100506-1.jpg" target=_blank><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5127201436608561554 style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/Ryd6iqDtAZI/AAAAAAAAATA/cYVXTB2YU48/s200/sv100506-1.jpg" border=0></A>Brass bands march through the streets every morning to wake up anyone who's managed to get any sleep, then the partying begins all over again. After six days of this, with much regret(and probably relief), at midnight on the 9th, the people wave goodbye to Celedón who rises up from the main plaza, back to the church bell tower. This is when the people untie the blue and white handkerchiefs which have been worn around their necks throughout the fiestas <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RyiXLKDtAdI/AAAAAAAAATg/ZwqRY2PIegU/s1600-h/sv100522-1.jpg" target=_blank><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5127514393695551954 style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RyiXLKDtAdI/AAAAAAAAATg/ZwqRY2PIegU/s200/sv100522-1.jpg" border=0></A>Two and a half hours later, you'd presume not much would be happening, but us die-hard party people headed to the university area where there were live bands, discos, bars, food etc. for the rest of the morning. As you can see from this photo with an old toreador, I just couldn't bring myself to remove the handkerchief! <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RyiXuaDtAeI/AAAAAAAAATo/x_9i2ynH6wg/s1600-h/sv100524-1.jpg" target=_blank><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5127514999285940706 style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RyiXuaDtAeI/AAAAAAAAATo/x_9i2ynH6wg/s200/sv100524-1.jpg" border=0></A>The party crew on this evening: my mate from Sarajevo, Hardi, and some of my Basque buddies, Zuriñe, Karlos, Kaldi, José and Amaia. Indie Basque metal band, Muted, pictured below, were rocking the place, check out their <A href="http://www.myspace.com/mutedmetal" target=_blank>myspace profile</A> to hear some of their songs. <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RyzPgaDtAhI/AAAAAAAAAUA/dooXIwWnNNM/s1600-h/sv100525.jpg"><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5128702231325770258 style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RyzPgaDtAhI/AAAAAAAAAUA/dooXIwWnNNM/s400/sv100525.jpg" border=0></A>

2009-09-15T16:49:06+02:00

2009-09-15T16:48:00+02:00 53154092

spain-11-fiestas-la-virgen-blanca-4-9-august

2009-09-15T16:49:06+02:00

1 Spain 11, Fiestas de la Virgen Blanca, 4-9 August

2009-09-15T17:26:11+02:00

92.18.172.35

53112020

53007094 <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/Rpz72RvCdLI/AAAAAAAAAKE/VRpUP--JIl4/s1600-h/sv100465s.JPG"><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5088218588914021554 style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="http://bp1.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/Rpz72RvCdLI/AAAAAAAAAKE/VRpUP--JIl4/s200/sv100465s.JPG" border=0 target="_blank"></A>In Vitroia-Gasteiz, as in the rest of Spain, fiestas seem to happen every week, particularly in summer. Spaniards certainly don't need much of an excuse to have a party, and they really know how to let their hair down! During fiestas and at weekends, it is not unusual to walk down one of the narrow streets in the casco viejo(old town) after 4 a.m., and the place is still buzzing with people making lots of noise. Following on from the Jazz Festival, there was a small fiesta in <A href="http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=Parque+de+Molinuevo,+Vitoria-Gasteiz,+Spain&sll=42.853741,-2.66942&sspn=0.003492,0.007296&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;ie=UTF8&ll=42.855047,-2.670794&spn=0.006984,0.014591&z=16&iwloc=addr&om=1" target=_blank>Parque de Molinuevo</A>. The Casa Americas fiesta celebrated Latin American culture, music and dance. There is a healthy South American presence in Spain, accounting for the largest immigrant presence here, followed by Moroccans, who often brave the Straights of Gibralter in flimsy boats to illegally enter the country for the chance of a better life. <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/Rpz8pBvCdMI/AAAAAAAAAKM/18jWZIVzm-M/s1600-h/sv100467s.JPG"><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5088219460792382658 style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/Rpz8pBvCdMI/AAAAAAAAAKM/18jWZIVzm-M/s200/sv100467s.JPG" border=0></A> A sunny day, nice ladies dancing on stage, and a plentiful supply of drink and food were the order of the day here. Vitoria is a very "tranquilo" place, and here in the park the atmosphere was very relaxed among the mainly Latin American audience, making for a good summer family day. Another larger fiesta is "El día del Blusa". This happens on the 25th July every year, coinciding with "La Fiesta de Santiago", the patron saint of Spain. <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RtB17JYWf7I/AAAAAAAAAQ4/Rwuxmn3yNrQ/s1600-h/SV101228s-1.JPG"><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5102708036801560498 style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RtB17JYWf7I/AAAAAAAAAQ4/Rwuxmn3yNrQ/s200/SV101228s-1.JPG" border=0></A>The protagonists in "The Day of the Blouse" are many locals donning white shirts and blue "blouses". The traditional clothes worn date back to when groups of friends would meet to go to the bull ring on this national holiday. To avoid their clothes getting stained they began to wear protective workers' overall-type clothes, which subsequently came to resemble those of Basque farmers and shephards. <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RtB0gJYWf6I/AAAAAAAAAQw/Hv0HrFqMqMs/s1600-h/SV101229s.JPG"><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5102706473433464738 style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RtB0gJYWf6I/AAAAAAAAAQw/Hv0HrFqMqMs/s320/SV101229s.JPG" border=0></A>This fiesta is seen as a warm-up to Vitoria's biggest party, the fiesta de la Virgen Blanca (see next post), where these clothes are also worn during the six-day party. The main activities of the fiesta are parades of blusas through the streets heading for the bullfight and a donkey race around the central plaza, involving about 20 representatives from the different squads of blusas. The most bizarre thing for me, though, was a market on several streets where all the stalls sell only one thing, "collars" of garlic (see picture). Most people I saw walking in the street had one or two of these around their knecks, which must keep them going for months! <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RtB39ZYWf8I/AAAAAAAAARA/HvgNv65jugQ/s1600-h/sv100472s.JPG"><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5102710274479521730 style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://bp1.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RtB39ZYWf8I/AAAAAAAAARA/HvgNv65jugQ/s320/sv100472s.JPG" border=0></A> The Spanish cities I have been to have excellent waste disposal and street-cleaning policies,with rubbish bins emptied at least once a day, and street cleaning vehicles and "binmen" working through the night. One facility in Vitoria that I hadn't come across before, though, is the vacuum waste disposal system. If you look at the above picture, you will see some grey receptacles on the left of the street. In Vitoria they utilise the Envac system. This vacuum system transports waste to a central depot through underground pipes at speeds of up to 70 km per hour! <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RvvootnpRBI/AAAAAAAAARI/NDbYtoxhgQ0/s1600-h/SV101318.JPG"><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5114937587947619346 style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RvvootnpRBI/AAAAAAAAARI/NDbYtoxhgQ0/s200/SV101318.JPG" border=0></A> This system is particularly useful for historic streets where heavy vehicular access is not possible, like here in Vitoria's old quarter. The system has never been used in the UK before, but is now being installed in Wembley, so could become more widespread over there in the next few years.

2009-09-15T16:48:20+02:00

2009-09-15T16:47:00+02:00 53154091

spain-10-fiestas-galore-

2009-09-15T16:48:20+02:00

1 Spain 10, ¡Fiestas Galore!

2009-09-15T17:25:46+02:00

92.18.172.35

53112020

53007094 8-15 July 2006 There are two large music festivals in Vitoria each year, the Festival de Jazz in July, and the Azkena Rock Festival in August. I was lucky enough to be there for both. For the Jazz Festival, there were some concerts at large venues with entry fees, but plenty of smaller bands performing free in bars and on the streets. <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RivGqYl_AEI/AAAAAAAAAG8/4-wocRBTyKY/s1600-h/sv100439s.JPG"><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5056353438112088130 style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="http://bp1.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RivGqYl_AEI/AAAAAAAAAG8/4-wocRBTyKY/s320/sv100439s.JPG" border=0></A>I was sat in my room on the first night and could hear some kicking Jazz nearby, so went to investigate. Just around the corner from my pension is the city's major modern art gallery, The Artium(which I will cover in a future blog entry). This band, Gasteiztarra, was playing outside, and turning out some great Dixieland tunes to a small crowd of passers-by. <OBJECT height=252 width=306 align=right><PARAM NAME="movie" VALUE="http://www.youtube.com/v/7UFHKQ2_bpk"> <embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/7UFHKQ2_bpk" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" height="252" width="306"></embed></OBJECT>Crank up the volume on your computer, and click on the YouTube play button right to see and hear a short video sample, and get "Jazzed-up"! I was in a bar the next day and the barmaid told me that there was a group playing that night at midnight. I asked "¿Qué grupo?" it was, and she said "Yazz". Well, I was amazed to hear this, as I was certain that the pop diva(whose first single "The Only Way Is Up" was the best selling single in the UK in 1988), was not performing anymore. I later realised my error, she was simply saying the word "Jazz", in Spanish! Free outdoor music festivals are always the best, in my opinion. They attract a different kind of audience and are more family orientated. A more peaceful atmosphere than the over-priced, high security modern festivals. <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RlHRGvUnA1I/AAAAAAAAAIE/Wc50tfasKa8/s1600-h/sv100444s.JPG"><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5067060969480848210 style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RlHRGvUnA1I/AAAAAAAAAIE/Wc50tfasKa8/s200/sv100444s.JPG" border=0></A>On the Sunday of the festival there was an evening of free jazz in the park at Campas de Armentia to the south of the city. New Birth Brass Band (their name stemming from the tragic floods in New Orleans) walked through the crowd during the gaps between the stage shows, causing much amusement and entertainment. First up at the concert was the six piece band, The Dukes of Dixieland. They represented the traditional white Jazz of New Orleans, and played compositions stretching back nearly a century, but which have certainly stood the test of time. The second group, and the highlight of the concert, was fronted by Doctor Michael White. An institution in New Orleans, Dr. White is a musician, composer, historian and professor of afro-american music. He played the clarinet, with veterans Gregory Stafford on trumpet and Detroit Brooks on banjo. <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RlHVA_UnA2I/AAAAAAAAAIM/um4SmB1gYFI/s1600-h/sv100446s.JPG"><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5067065268743111522 style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://bp1.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RlHVA_UnA2I/AAAAAAAAAIM/um4SmB1gYFI/s400/sv100446s.JPG" border=0></A>He had even composed a song especially for the Basque audience which was enthusiastically received. However, my favourite piece was an excellent rendition of Gershwin's "Summertime", a composition recorded more times than any other in history. Click on the video link below to see the end of this song, after which I pan to the crowd to give you a flavour of the scene. <CENTER> <OBJECT style="BORDER-RIGHT: 0px; BORDER-TOP: 0px; BACKGROUND: none transparent scroll repeat 0% 0%; MARGIN: 0px; BORDER-LEFT: 0px; BORDER-BOTTOM: 0px" height=350 width=425><PARAM NAME="movie" VALUE="http://www.youtube.com/v/4SbCOhEImq4"> <embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/4SbCOhEImq4" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" height="350" width="425"></embed></OBJECT></CENTER> <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RlH58vUnA3I/AAAAAAAAAIU/VrAp_v10Fvo/s1600-h/sv100451s.JPG"><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5067105877658895218 style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RlH58vUnA3I/AAAAAAAAAIU/VrAp_v10Fvo/s320/sv100451s.JPG" border=0></A> The New Birth Brass Band were out bringing the music right among the audience once again, with "When the Saints...". Marching bands have been around in New Orleans since the 19th century, and remember that funeral scene in the James Bond movie, "Live and Let Die"? The final band on stage was the six-piece "Spirit of New Orleans", formed following Hurricane Katrina by musicians famous in their own right, and with their respective bands. They proved so much in demand that they have taken their performances around the world. The trombonist, Lucien Barbarin, is considered the best in New Orleans and comes from a family of famous musicians, his great-uncle, Isodore, being the mentor of Louis Armstrong. <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RlIQ7PUnA4I/AAAAAAAAAIc/khP3yZbxgas/s1600-h/sv100452s.JPG"><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5067131140656530306 style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RlIQ7PUnA4I/AAAAAAAAAIc/khP3yZbxgas/s400/sv100452s.JPG" border=0></A> My camera has a case with a belt attachement which I normally wear on my hip. As I was sat on the grass watching the concert, this was uncomfortable, so I moved it round to the centre of the belt, which would later have dramatic consequences..... ...at this point I was busting for the toilet, but the portaloo area had been closed off, so I eventually found a building which looked like a pavilion. Inside were some toilets, so, as I had button-up fly jeans, I was desperately undoing my belt, at which point the camera fell in the toilet bowl! I immediately fished it out, thinking "Oh my god! The camera's knackered, and I've lost the pictures and video I've just taken". I walked out of the building, cursing and swearing at my stupidity, and there was a group of smartly-dressed men outside. I started talking to the first guy and was pleased to learn he was American, and very intelligent, so could converse with someone in english, for the first time since being in the Basque country. Still stunned from the toilet incident, I told him about my camera, and that I was traveling in Spain and writing a blog about my experiences. I then introduced myself and shook hands, asking "what's your name?". To this, he slightly indignantly replied, "I'm Michael White"! I suddenly felt very small, and tried to dig myself out of the big hole I was in, by complementing his performance, especially the rendition of "Summertime". Well, I had enjoyed a bottle of vino tinto and some herbal tobacco while watching the concert! It turned out that the building I had found to relieve myself was the artists' changing area, etc. <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RlIqQvUnA6I/AAAAAAAAAIs/o9OOteJUzK4/s1600-h/sv100454s.JPG"><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5067158997814412194 style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://bp1.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RlIqQvUnA6I/AAAAAAAAAIs/o9OOteJUzK4/s400/sv100454s.JPG" border=0></A> The last band played some very lively jazz, and by this stage the audience were really getting into the atmosphere, and a number of people had started to dance near the stage. I went over to join them, and had a right good boogie. It was the climax of a brilliant day, and all for the cost of a bottle of vino tinto. Cheers Vitoria-Gasteiz!

2009-09-15T16:47:27+02:00

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1 Spain 9, Vitoria-Gasteiz Jazz Festival

2009-09-15T17:25:22+02:00

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53007094 Leaving Zaragoza was as much of a pain as arriving, carrying all my luggage to the bike in the extreme heat of the afternoon, in my leathers! Once eventually out of the city traffic and on the open road, it was OK, and I plumped for motorways to reduce the journey time. Once I had entered the Basque country, it was noticeably cooler, and I nearly stopped to put my extra jacket on! <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RnrP9au936I/AAAAAAAAAJs/GRWEsfdg7xw/s1600-h/115px-Vitoria_flag.png"><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5078600183868940194 style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 10px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp2.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RnrP9au936I/AAAAAAAAAJs/GRWEsfdg7xw/s200/115px-Vitoria_flag.png" border=0></A>I arrived in <A href="http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&q=vitoria,+spain&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=31.784549,59.765625&layer=&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;ie=UTF8&z=7&ll=42.892064,-2.669678&spn=3.670254,11.074219&om=1" target=_blank>Vitoria-Gasteiz</A> (Vitoria being the Spanish name, and Gasteiz, Basque) by early evening and glanced at one of the roadside temperature gauges/clocks, which are a common sight in Spain. It was only showing 22ºC, which caused a loud cheer inside my helmet! This was half the temperature that was regularly reached in Zaragoza. <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RhK1T8Bo0ZI/AAAAAAAAAFo/nc-L7b1fWaE/s1600-h/sv100436s.JPG"><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5049297486370886034 style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/RhK1T8Bo0ZI/AAAAAAAAAFo/nc-L7b1fWaE/s400/sv100436s.JPG" border=0></A>I had decided on one of the cheapest city centre pensions in the Rough Guide, which was in the old town. It took me a while to navigate the obligatory one-way system, with several roads not accessible, but I was helped by a friendly local. This was the first picture I took in Vitoria-Gasteiz. They have strange inhabitants here! This guy was out walking his dog. You can understand that I got right out of the way pretty quickly after taking this photo! Like all Spanish cities I've been to, the heart of the modern city of Vitoria-Gasteiz is centred around the old town, with it's narrow cobbled streets, and virtually totally pedestrianised. The bars around the old quarter are very lively, and stay open late. My intention in coming here was to be able to commute to Pamplona for a day, and enjoy the fiesta San Fermin. However, "El enciero", the running of the bulls, starts at 8 a.m. each day, so to be able to get a vantage point, the train I would need to get from Vitoria left at 6 a.m. As I was out until 3 every morning getting to know<A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/Rha55sY9RJI/AAAAAAAAAGU/PArJLqU_15o/s1600-h/SV100441s.JPG"><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5050428432962110610 style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; CURSOR: pointer" alt="" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/Rha55sY9RJI/AAAAAAAAAGU/PArJLqU_15o/s200/SV100441s.JPG" border=0></A> this new city, alas, I never made it to Pamplona. My new Kiwi mate, Sean, was partying there for several days, though, and he will hopefully write an entry for this blog, telling us all about it! He flew back to Newcastle (where he is currently working), from Vitoria, so we had a chance to meet up before he left. He was extremely knackered, and had clearly enjoyed the festivities to the full! <A onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/Rh6c0I_fGzI/AAAAAAAAAGk/O-NFNviO3w0/s1600-h/SV100612s.JPG"><IMG id=BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5052648251537169202 style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_138avbqsoJQ/Rh6c0I_fGzI/AAAAAAAAAGk/O-NFNviO3w0/s400/SV100612s.JPG" border=0></A>The "new" cathedral in Vitoria-Gasteiz, built in the early 20th century, so, very new by Spanish religious buildings standards! The Pension I found was excellent, a larger room than the one in Zaragoza, with a double bed and sink, and very clean. <A href="http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&q=Calle+Nueva+Fuera,+32,+vitoria-gasteiz&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=29.854268,59.765625&layer=&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;ie=UTF8&om=1&z=15&ll=42.852152,-2.669549&spn=0.013466,0.029182&iwloc=addrPension" target=_blank>Pension Eguileta</A> was superb value at €20 a night.

2009-09-15T16:46:32+02:00

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1 Spain 8, Arriving in Vitoria-Gasteiz

2009-09-15T17:24:52+02:00